Hornstrandir is a nature reserve in northwest Iceland. It is an isolated peninsula once inhabited by humans. Now deserted, it has become a paradise for experienced hikers and the kingdom of Icelandic Arctic foxes. I discovered this nature reserve when I started taking an interest in one of the smallest canids in the world, the Arctic fox. I’m a wildlife photographer. For several years, I’ve been working in the Hornstrandir reserve as a hiking and photo guide. Every year, I organize an Arctic Fox Photo Workshop for wildlife photographers, biologists, and enthusiasts with a small team. But the story I willContinue reading
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Guernsey, Alderney, Sark, Herm (Channel Islands)
Kayak Trip Day 65: Orșova to Drobeta-Turnu Severin – Iron Gate I Locks Unlocked!
This kayak trip happened on Monday the 27th of May, 2024. We paddled from Orșova to Drobeta-Turnu Severin on the Romanian side of the Danube in the border area shared with Serbia. We also had to pass through the Iron Gates I dam (Romanian: Porțile de Fier I – Serbian: Đerdap I). Portaging is not feasible, so we had to go through the lock with the big ships! Kayaking Through Locks: Research + Stress The Iron Gate I Hydroelectric Power Station is the 53rd obstacle on the Danube for us since 2019, but it’s the first one in 2024. SoContinue reading
Kayak Trip Day 50: Mohács in Hungary to Apatin in Serbia – We Meet Again, Danube
The events in this story happened on Thursday the 28th of March, 2024. We paddled our inflatable canoe Zucchini from Mohács in Hungary to Apatin in Serbia. This was our first kayaking day down the Danube of 2024 and a continuation of this trip in 2019. We intend to paddle to the Black Sea in 2024 this year. Since we’re crossing from a Schengen country to outside of the EU, this required some paperwork at the police. Our (Second) Stay in Mohács Hungarian Immigration + A Call with a TID Participant Leaving Mohács for Apatin: Day 50 or Day 1?Continue reading
Kayak Trip Day 77: Silistra to Chiciu and Ostrov – Goodbye Bulgaria, Hello (Again) Romania
We paddled from Bulgaria to Romania on the Danube on Tuesday, the 9th of July 2024. We started our morning in Silistra on the Bulgarian side where we had checked out of the country the day before. Then we had to cross the Danube to Chiciu in Romania to legally check in per kayak there. This happened a few months before both Bulgaria and Romania fully joined Schengen. But our destination of the day was a small village called Ostrov a little further downstream. Silistra Immigration by Kayak Two days before kayaking back into Romania, we tried to find outContinue reading
Hiking to Farol de Dona Amélia, São Vicente
How to Get There I’d first spotted this lighthouse from the back of a scooter when I visited São Vicente for the first time. I already knew I wanted to dedicate a day to visit the lighthouse upon return to São Vicente after Santo Antão island. The lighthouse is called “Farol de Dona Amélia,” but if you’re in a public vehicle or a taxi in direction of São Pedro, all you need to know is the word Farol – ‘lighthouse’. Everybody knows which one you mean if you’re in the right area. This lighthouse is located on the tip knownContinue reading
Mpak – São Domingos Border Crossing by Taxi, Motorbike and Canoa
This article is about the land border between Mpak (Mpack) in Senegal and São Domingos in Guinea-Bissau. On the 22nd of March, 2025, we traveled from Ziguinchor in Senegal to Cacheu in one day. We took a taxi, crossed the border on foot, tried to hitchhike, and eventually took two mototaxis to the port, where we boarded a pirogue/canoa. Read on to find out how we did it. Zichuinchor to Cacheu instead of Bissau While writing a page about Guinea-Bissau to aid our travels in West Africa, I stumbled upon the small village of Cacheu by the river of theContinue reading
Kayak Trip Day 83: Galați to Isaccea – Bombed Grain Silos in Reni, Kayaking the Ukrainian–Romanian Border Danube
This happened on the 27th of July, 2024. We paddled away from Galați to Isaccea on the Romanian side of the Danube. The Danube here flows past Giurgiulești in Moldova, followed by Reni and Orlivka in Ukraine’s Odesa Oblast. As russia’s full-scale invasion of Ukraine rages on and this is an EU outer border, we stuck to the Romanian side and did not cross Leaving Galați for Isaccea Waking up at 5:35, I immediately noticed my throat hurt. We turned off the aircon – which might have been the cause of the painful throat – and prepared to kayak toContinue reading
Kayak Trip Day 84: Isaccea to Tulcea – Entering the Danube Delta, the End is Near
This kayak day happened on the 29th of July, 2024. We paddled from Isaccea to Tulcea in Romania. We followed the Danube that forms the border between Romania and Ukraine till the split that marks the official start of the Danube Delta. The Kiliya (aka Chilia) Branch took a left, and we followed the Tulcea Branch (future Sulina and Sfântu Gheorge branches) to the right. Leaving Isaccea for Tulcea When we continued from Isaccea to Tulcea, we knew it wasn’t a long day. Initially, Jonas had miscalculated something and said that the distance between the two was 50 kilometers justContinue reading




















