This question was sent to me by email. These rowers wrote me the following message about traveling the Danube in a boat that’s too big and heavy for portaging around the dams. Theirs is an ocean rowing boat, which I later found out are almost as big as a small sailing yacht, with indoor sleeping spaces and all. When writing the response, I thought of turning it into a mini blog post to help fellow Danube travelers. Their message: Are the locks downstream of Ulm operational? Hi , We are curious about the locks downstream of Ulm on the Danube.Continue reading
kayaking
Kayak Trip Day 72: Oryahovo to Nikopol – Summer Solstice + 80 Kilometers
The longest day (so far) of our kayaking trip down the Danube happened on the 20th of June, 2024. We paddled over 80 kilometers in one day on the Bulgarian side of the Danube between the towns of Oryahovo and Nikopol. Dawn in Oryahovo My alarm went off at 4:45. I hadn’t slept much, though the vibrations from trucks driving by off the ferry didn’t bother me as much as they had the night before. I started getting dressed and doing my hair while Jonas only got up at 5:00. He liked it that I got up earlier since someContinue reading
Kayak Trip Day 67: Crivina to Comoara Istrului – Iron Gate II Dam + Danube Gogoșu Branch
This kayak day happened on Wednesday the 5th of June, 2024. We kayaked from Crivina to the touristic complex of Comoara Istrului nearby the Gogoșu branch of the Danube at the Iron Gate II dam (Romanian: Porțile de Fier II – Serbian: Đerdap II). Why Bypass the Iron Gate II Locks? Short reason: I don’t think we can get lucky twice. We might have to wait hours in our kayak without shadow for a companion ship to arrive to go through the lock and descend the ~12 meters. Or we might arrive there and the lock operators aren’t fond ofContinue reading
Kayak Trip Day 62: Golubac to Donji Milanovac – Entering the Iron Gate + Breaking Fifty
We kayaked from Golubac to Donji Milanovac in Serbia on the Danube on the 11th of May, 2024. This is in the border area between Romania and Serbia through the Iron Gate canyon. It’s the first time we paddled over 50 kilometers in one day. Seeking a Sailor’s Advice on Đerdap Lake Paddling Out to Golubac Fortress + Golubac Gorge The following morning, we had a coffee and prepared for paddling. It’s not a long walk to our launch spot on the Danube from here and with such little luggage, it was very pleasant. We pumped up Zucchini below theContinue reading
Kayak Trip Day 54: Ilok to Bačka Palanka to Novi Sad – Goodbye Croatia, Hello Serbia
Our 54th paddle day was on Wednesday, the 10th of April, 2024. Our hosts in Ilok helped us cross the land border bridge between Ilok and Bačka Palanka to get the paperwork right. They dropped us off at a suitable launch spot on the Serbian side and we immediately began paddling to Novi Sad. This was our fifth day on the Danube in 2024 and our 54th day in total. Croatia to Serbia via the Ilok–Bačka Palanka Bridge With the hole in the boat patched and everything packed, we left our last accommodation in Croatia a little before 7:00. OurContinue reading
Kayaking the Agger, Sieg, and Rhine – Zucchini’s Recertification River Trials for the Danube
We kayaked the Agger, Sieg, and a bit of the Rhine rivers on Thursday, the 29th of February, 2024. Besides having fun, this was also an important test for our inflatable kayak Zucchini, which had been in storage for over 4 years since paddling the Morava River. Will she float? If she passes her shakedown cruise on these three rapid rivers, we shall take her to Mohács to kayak the rest of the Danube River this year. Four Years, Four Months, and Twenty-Nine Days of Slumber Inflating Zucchini + Testing for Leaks Before we could take Zucchini back to theContinue reading
Kayaking to Île aux Fous, Îlot Hollandais, and Île aux Diamant from Port Mathurin, Rodrigues
We did this paddling trip on Monday the 23rd of May, 2022. The route went from Pointe Monnier in Port Mathurin to the artificial Îlot des Hollandais, Île aux Fous, and Île aux Diamant. All these islands are located in the gigantic lagoon of Rodrigues, Mauritius. The Idea to Paddle to Île aux Fous The first time Jonas and I drove the northern coast of Rodrigues, I knew I wanted to visit Île aux Fous (Fool’s Island, English alternative name: Booby Island). The island is quite far from the mainland, but it’s still within the safety of the reef. TheContinue reading
Île aux Bénitiers + Crystal Rock by Kayak! (Mauritius)
All this happened on the 10th of January, 2022. After asking around far and wide for a place that would rent us a kayak, someone came through. The caveat? The two-person kayak only had one paddle. But we made do and paddled to île aux Bénitiers and Crystal Rock. Watch the vlog to see what that’s like! Green Village Saves the Day During our stay in La Gaulette, we had quite some trouble getting both a scooter and a kayak. We eventually got a scooter, but the kayak was still such a difficult quest. We had messaged and called severalContinue reading
Kayaking + Snorkeling at Crab Cay and Three Brothers (Old Providence, Colombia)
All this happened on the 2nd of November, 2017. We rented a kayak and paddled to Crab Cay from the island of Old Providence. This is part of the Archipelago of San Andrés, Providencia, and Santa Catalina. This is where I did my first successful and enjoyable snorkeling session. Renting a Kayak on Providencia We asked the owner of our guesthouse (Posada Sunrise View) Keoma how to go to Crab Cay (Spanish: Cayo Cangrejo). She told us where to catch the little motorboats, but also told us of the option to rent a kayak. Jonas and I had paddled inContinue reading